Clothing during the 1st century BC to 5th century AD in the Roman Empire not only responded to functional or climatic needs, but also reflected the status, citizenship, occupation, and even morality of the individual.
From the simple tunics of slaves to the rich togas of senators, each garment was part of a visual language that everyone knew how to interpret.
The heart of clothing: tunics and cloaks
The tunic was the basic garment, made of linen or wool, with or without short sleeves, which could be simple or luxurious, depending on the status of the wearer.
Male citizens usually wore it long, while soldiers and workers wore shorter, more functional versions.
In the case of slaves, the tunics were short and simple. The same applied to freedmen, who were not considered citizens.
Women's tunics were also longer.
Over the tunics, citizens wore togas appropriate to their status, large pieces of cloth that were wrapped around the body and held in place with a sash.
While women wore the stola, a pleated tunic that was longer and tighter, and served as an indicator of their married status.
Over these, the Romans wore cloaks such as the paenula (with a hood, worn in rainy weather, or mainly for travelling), the lacerna (more elegant, sometimes with brooches) or the sagum (military cloak).
There was also the palla, a cape or shawl specifically for women's use.
The colors and ornamentation of Roman clothing were also important, indicating social status and the occasion. For example, the toga with a purple band (toga praetexta) was worn by senators and magistrates.
Accessories for military clothing
Subarmalis and the garments under the armor
Soldiers in the Roman army wore a padded garment called a subarmalis under their breastplate.
This piece served to cushion blows and prevent the metal from rubbing against the skin. It could be made of multiple layers of linen or wool, often reinforced with leather or even integrated metal plates on the shoulders and torso. It was essential for both the common legionary and the centurion, although the quality and decoration varied.
Belts: from the cingulum to the balteus
One of the most emblematic elements of the Roman military uniform was the belt, not only as a support but also as a symbol of identity.
The cingulum militare was the legionary's belt, richly decorated with metal plates and rivets. Reinforced leather strips, called baltea, often hung from it, protecting the lower abdomen and displaying insignia.
The balteus, in a more general sense, also referred to the baldric from which the sword (gladius) hung, usually across the torso or suspended from the left shoulder.
Centurions' belts were even more ornate and often accompanied by phalerae, embossed metal discs used both as decoration and as symbols of merit or affiliation.
Another variant is the tekija , a belt originating in the Danube area adopted by auxiliary troops of eastern origin. These included wider plates and buckles of various shapes, many of which are in the National Archaeological Museum in Belgrade or the Museum of Romanity in Nîmes.
Badges, brooches and accessories
The belt plates were true miniature works of art. Many featured geometric decorations, mythological scenes, or military symbols.
Some pieces, preserved in the Romano-Germanic Museum in Cologne (Köln), Germany, show Celtic and Germanic influences in their iconography.
Onion-button brooches were common in the army during the Late Empire, while ring-type brooches were typical of civilian clothing. Both allowed a cape or mantle to be secured to the shoulder and could be made of bronze, silver, or even gilt iron.
The Museum of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, France, houses an important collection of them.
In the context of the gladiator, the use of the rete stands out, a combat net that is not a garment itself, but is part of the body equipment and is visually identifiable.
The pugio, the clips and the bags
The small Roman dagger, pugio, had its system of attachment to the belt by means of bronze and iron clips or hooks.
The Museum of London preserves examples where the support for this features silver inlays and zoomorphic designs.
Roman bags—such as the loculus, used by legionaries—were used to carry personal belongings. The pilgrim's bag, on the other hand, was a more common civilian item in religious or travel contexts and was often depicted in funerary sculptures or mosaics as a symbol of life's journey.
Roman footwear:
between functionality and range
Calcei, closed leather shoes, were the typical footwear of the Roman citizen, while sandals (soleae) were more informal and common inside the home or in hot contexts.
Soldiers wore the famous caligae, thick-soled boots with metal studs for grip and durability. Many of these are preserved in excellent condition at the Vindolanda Museum.
You can find a wide variety of products, ideal for collecting or recreating life in the ancient Roman Empire , in our Medieval Shop, by visiting the collection at the link.
